Vegetarian food in BKK
If you don't eat meat but have missed the vegetarian festival at the end of September, and the "pad pak ruam mit" is growing out of your ears already, try some of the following restaurants ... and please, please feel free to add suggestions to the list:Mo Chint / Chatuchak Market area:
- "Royal Vegetarian": Open from 11:30 - 21:00. Amazing THB 65 buffet with starters, salad, curries, drinks and even dessert!
Viphavadee Rangsit Soi 22 (at the corner of Lad Phrao Soi 8), about 300 m from the giant Thai airways building
on the BTS Skytrain: Go to Mo Chit and either take the free shuttle bus towards Central Lad Phrao, but get off at the first stop where there is a foot bridge crossing Thanon Phaoyolthin for the big Thai Military Bank headquarters building, or simply walk north to the bank; turn right into the lane (should be Viphavadee Rangsit Soi 21) all the way to the other end where there is a footbridge crossing Viphavadee Rangsit. At the other end, simply walk straight into soi 22; the restaurant is straight ahead at the corner where the soi makes a right bend.
on the bus: busses 8 or 44 (from Chinatown or Victory Monument) or 38 (from Thanon Phet'buri or Victory Monument) to one stop past the Mo Chit BTS Skytrain station where there is a footbridge crossing Thanon Phaholyothin, then see above; other busses that make the journey (but who knows where they start...): 513 (a/c, blue), 503 (a/c), 138 (a/c), 34 (a/c), 29 (ord., red), 3 (ord., red), 63 (ord., red), 104 (ord., blue), 36 (ord., red)*Text*
- Vegetarian Canteen: Open from 10:00 to 14:00 every day except Monday. Several vendors selling tasty and inexpensive vegetarian fare. Two curries on rice comes to THB 12, a dessert of pumpkin in coconut milk is THB 5. You need to buy coupons.
This may be the Asoke foundation restaurant mentioned in the Lonely Planet, but it is really not half as hard to find as one might guess from the entry there: from Chatuchak Market, simply exit via gate 1, cross Th. Kamphaeng Phet 2 and walk straight into the parking lot, past a used magazine/books stall to your right, and simply straight on even when it looks like it’s a dead end. On your way, you may see a sign with the traditional Chinese character marking all the Chinese vegetarian restaurants in the country, indicating that you should walk straight on.
There are also two vegetarian Health Food Shops on the premises, one next to the canteen, and one around the back.
- “Healthy Spice”: An a/c a la carte restaurant right next to the canteen (see above)
- “Vegetarian Cottage”: Apparently a fairly upmarket vegetarian venue: Viphavadee Rangsit Soi 16 (for directions see “Royal Vegetarian”) and simply walk along Viphavadee Rangsit until you get to Soi 16 instead of walking into Soi 22, it’s to the right of the Thai Airways building).
Sukhumvit / Thanon Phet’buri:
_ “Egyptian Restaurant” (no other discernable name): not a vegetarian place per se, but does a great eggplant curry (THB 60) and tomato rice (THB 30) which will serve two. Also breads and humus etc, and each meal comes with pickled vegetables:
Sukhumvit Soi Nana: On the BTS Skytrain: coming from Siam, go to Ploenchit and continue to walk east (towards On Nut), underneath the expressway and across the train tracks, pass Soi 1, and then turn left into the next Soi (which is Nana). The restaurant is on the right hand side, somewhere diagonally opposite Bangkok Bank. Coming from On Nut, get off at Nana, walk west on Sukhumvit and turn into Nana.
On the bus: bus 25 (from Tha Chang, Chinatown or Hualamphong Train Station) takes you to Ploenchit BTS station, then see above.
- “Fruit/Vegetable Shake vendor”: Early to late mornings except for weekends and public holidays. Nice lady selling great shakes (beetroot, carrot, cantalope, banana, pineapple, tomato etc all mixed) for THB 2
Sukhumvit Soi 1, right on the corner with Sukhumvit
For directions see “Egyptian Restaurant”
- “Govinda”: Pizze, pasta, salads and other Italian fare, in the THB 100+ range
Sukhumvit Soi 22: walk into the Soi, the restaurant will be in an area to you right, not too far into the Soi
- Student Canteen at Srinakharinwirot University: The first vendor from the left (it may just be number one) does a great “Indian” salad with lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber, boiled egg and a fantastic peanut sauce, much better than that served at the Mataba place on Th. Phra Athit, and cheaper too: only THB 12 (there is also a fun, albeit not particularly vegetarian, market on the university grounds on Thursdays during term time)
On the BTS Skytrain: go to Asoke and then walk up Soi 24, or take bus 38 up Soi Asoke and get off at the “Eye Hospital”. Follow the signs for the “Church of the Latter Day Saints” (or something along those lines) into the soi, which will lead you straight onto the campus), or simply take a motorcycle taxi
On the bus: bus 38 (from On Nut/Sukhumvit, or Vicotry Monument/Th. Phetburi) will take you to Soi Asoke. Get off at the “Eye Hospital”, then see above.
On the Klong San Saep canal taxi: (very convenient from Wat Saket) get off at Moh Suoh Who Prasanmit, the stop is on campus already
- Great Thai restaurant with an extensive vegetarian selection on the menu (look for the “vegetable food” section) including dishes on rice as well as family-style options
Th. Phet’buri, east of Soi Asoke
By Klong San Saep canal taxi (very convenient from Wat Saket): get off at Moh Suoh Who Prasanmit, take the footbridge across the canal and walk through the lively market on the other side until you reach Th. Phetburi, turn left and the restaurant is the one with all the mirrors inside, next to the 7/11.
- Chinese Vegetarian Restaurant: Sukhumvit Soi 24/1 (you can also get there from Soi 26 by folowing the sign for the Roots Reggae bar and then turning right once in that courtyard).
- Mexican/Japanese/Italian Vegetarian Restaurant: Sukhumvit Soi 39
- “Anothai”: Open until 21:30, closed Wednesday and Thursday
Just east of Asoke, in between Th. Rama 9 and Th. Phet’buri, in a Soi west of Rama 9 hospital
Phaya Thai / Siam:
- Chinese Vegetarian Restaurant: Nomen est omen, vegetarian Chinese food with some Thai curries as well, you pay according to the eight of your plate, but even with a huge appetite you will find it difficult to go beyond THB 40 per meal.
Th. Phaya Thai, between Phaya Thai and Rhatchathewi BTS Sky Train stations, on the west side of the street (so beter don’t wear gang colors…), look for the standard yellow flags with the red Chinese characters and the two Thai letters spelling “je”.
- MBK Food Center: Two Chinese/Thai vegetarian vendors (at the moment the place is being refurbished, so only one is open); three curries on rice for THB 35, and you can also order other dishes, e.g. vegetarian Sukhi. You need to buy coupons.
MBK, 6th floor. From BTS Skytrain National Stadium, best take the escalators in Tokyu Department Store all the way to the top, and then the next escalator will take you straight into the food center.
China Town /Phahurat:
- “Bhabi Restaurant”: A hole in the wall with lovely Indian vegetarian food. Curries either THB 25 or 35, plain rice THB 10.
Th Chakrapet, Soi ATM: When you stand in front of the ATM Department Store, walk down the soi to the left with all the Indian spice shops, Bhabi will be on your lef.
- Chinese Vegetarian Vendor: Also somewhere around the ATM Department Store, on the back, don’t quite remember how I got there, but it’ll make for an interesting exploration, whether you find it or not.